I have always struggled to do makeup on my hooded eyes, I’d do a whole beautiful look but that would get covered as soon as I opened my eyes.

So for this post I got my sister to model for me, she has small eyes that are slightly hooded as well. These are things I was taught by makeup artists during training as well as things I have discovered through experience.

The idea is to make your look wider, more open, lifted and youthful.

1- Brush your brows upwards and set them with gel or soap brows. This is especially important if you have long or thick brows that don’t tend to stay in shape

2- Use a little concealer to carve out your brow, avoid too much product because the more product you use the more creasing you will have.

3- Always set your concealer base with a translucent powder, this helps to avoid creasing.

4- Use slightly lighter colour to fill in your brows. Try to use brow pencils or pens to draw in feather like strokes that mimic brow hair. Use a light hand and don’t fill them in too dark at the front of the brow. If you use pomades don’t use a colour thats too dark (looking at you abh ‘ebony’). Don’t bring the front of your brow in too close and don’t extend the tail down too much because that will drag your eye down and make it look more hooded.

5- Imagine a line from the edge of your nose to the outer corner of your eye to the tail of your brow, now when you apply eyeshadow make sure it doesn’t go down past this line to give a more lifted effect.

6- Apply your transition or crease shade above your actual crease. This will mean you can still see the eyeshadow when your eyes are open. This will also give the appearance of bigger eyes because you create a faux crease.

7- Apply a lighter shade to the inner corner of your eye to give a wide eye’d open look. You can use a lighter colour eyeshadow or a highlight.

8- When applying eyeshadow under your lower lash line only apply to the outer third. The shadow can be thicker in the outer corned gradually getting thinner the further in you go.

Forgot to add a step here… if you apply liquid liner, apply a thin line. Make the wing of the liner follow that imaginary line, keep looking straight at the mirror and apply slowly so that you can ensure it’s going in the right direction. Only go half way on your eyelid, if you choose to go all the way in, make sure its a very thin line. Use a waterproof eyeliner and make sure its dry before you open your eyes, my favourite is the ‘born this way better than sex’ eyeliner because the tip is so thin it really helps to draw a thin line and get close to the lash line.

9 (& 10 for some reason smh)- Curl your lashes, this helps to lift the eye look and make you look more awake.

11- Apply mascara to hold the curled lashes

12- When choosing lashes go for wispy lashes that are longer at the end. Avoid lashes that have a thick lash band or strip lashes that are too full and long, because our lid space is small if the lashes are too long they cover up all the work you did on your eyeshadow. Remember to trim your lashes so they fit your eye, if the lashes don’t fit they will irritate your eyes and if they extend past your actual lash line it will make your eyes droop downwards.

Things to avoid if you have hooded or small eyes

1- Too much product. The whole point of concealer on the eye lid is to have a base for the eyeshadow, if you use too much you’ll just get more creasing.

2- Not using a translucent powder. You will get creasing and get that annoying line. This is minimised with a powder. The powder also helps you blend your eyeshadow better.

3- Using a colour that is too dark for your brows, drawing your brows too thick and bringing the tail down too much. All of these take away from your eye makeup and it doesn’t look bright and lifted.

4- Drawing a liquid liner on the top lash line that is too thick. This looks beautiful when your eyes are closed but takes over all the lid space when your eyes are open. Also if your eyes are small avoid doing an inner corner point. I love doing the point but have to make sure that if I do it to make sure the point is really thin.

5- Using a dark colour in the water line. There’s actually nothing wrong with this but a lighter colour does make your eyes appear bigger and more open.

6- I didn’t have any awful thick long lashes to demonstrate this so this lash doesn’t look bad, but avoid applying a lash thats too thick, too long and not cut down to your eye shape.

To be honest you can do makeup however you like and whatever you think suits you. These are just tips for if you want a more lifted, youthful and wide eyed look.

Hope this post was helpful!